An island is remote, isolated, and
intriguing.
From the boat, I watched Santa Catalina Island looming, hazy gray on the horizon.
I planned to solo backpack on the island, from as “tip to tip” as I
could get. I wanted to experience what one cannot from a moving vehicle: the
delicate richness of things as they should be. I thought I was prepared for what
awaited me; little did I know that the island held secrets and was full of surprises
. . .
DAY ONE Avalon to Blackjack
Is there action that defines ecstasy? The island hums with life, bees and
wildflowers abound. I come across a California lilac in full bloom, its beautiful
lavender flowers tumbling above the roadside. Sonoran bumblebees, big, bulky
fliers, hover about tasting the sweet nectar and, loaded down, spread pollen
from plant to plant. Looking closer, I notice that some of the bumblebees just
sit, bloated bellies filled with nectar. Joy, satisfaction and reverie…symbiosis.
DAY TWO Blackjack to Little Harbor
Surprises on Sheep Chute Road. This must be bison country; there are more
buffalo chips here than I have ever seen in my life! The scattered chips raise
interesting questions. What are the impacts of bison on this island and what
are the impacts of the island on the bison?
At Little Harbor. A Catalina Island Conservancy naturalist stops by and invites
me to a campfire program. At the campfire pit, all participants receive rustic
musical instruments to play as the naturalist weaves her story. (Mine, a clapper
stick, represents squirrel.) She tells of the island’s formation, plant
and animal dispersal, interrelationships, and the people, concluding with the
work of the Conservancy. At story’s end, we’re full of knowledge about
the complexities of island life and have made an exquisite cacophony that I’m
sure could be heard far and wide.
DAY THREE Little Harbor to Two Harbors
As I walk towards Two Harbors, my feet move rhythmically to the same beat
played at last night’s fire. The naturalist spoke about how humans have
interacted with the ecosystem on Catalina-seven thousand years of interactions.
It seems that the Conservancy is dedicated to protecting and restoring the natural
relationships here. And the human component is so strong that they welcome people
onto the land.
DAY FOUR Two Harbors to Parsons Landing
So, this is the West End. Crystal blue water coves, amazing visibility…orange
flecks of garibaldi mingle with the brown blades of giant kelp. Snorkeling will
have to wait until my next trip (the water is still a little cold for my blood).
Along the road comes a large tan van. I haven’t seen a car since I left
Two Harbors. As it stops to let me pass, I ask the driver what they are doing.
He informs me that he is a volunteer for the Conservancy and they just finished
working on invasive plant removal. He says that the Conservancy, in the effort
to preserve natural diversity, works to control the spread of weeds. He runs
down a list of other volunteer projects he’s participated in. From removing
old fences to planting oak trees at Middle Ranch, he’s done it all while
enjoying the natural beauty of the island and getting into some off-the-beaten-path
spots. What a remarkable opportunity to help out while learning about and exploring
this island. List of what to do on next trip to the island:
1) Snorkel
2) Volunteer for the Conservancy.
DAY FIVE Day hike to Starlight Beach
Wild nature exists here. I lunch in a toyon and oak covered ravine. After
a while I notice the variety of lichen covering stone and wood. Different colors
represent different species and I count over twenty. As I look up close, I discover
camouflaged in a snarl of branches and roots, a fat rattlesnake. Only a yard
away, the snake seems aware of me, yet doesn't care. It’s probably digesting
a meal. I step back, sit and watch as it lays, tangled and motionless. I am aware
of the quiet-full-of-sound; quail and other birds, waves, wind, insects. Back
on the road, I look towards Land’s End and then receive another gift. Two
young foxes scurry across the road. Our eyes meet and suddenly the grinding bark
of the mother startles us. The babies smell the air and head into the brush,
toward the mother’s call. Amazed, I sit and stare off towards the sea.
What I didn't include in that last passage was that I saw a bald eagle on
my walk back to camp. I thought that sounded like I was exaggerating. Now, I
think about my trip, tip to tip, on Santa Catalina Island. Expectations were
far surpassed. The scope of restoration on the island is huge and the Conservancy
believes it can and should be done while including people. Hidden Catalina awaits,
all it takes is a camping permit and a map…
This journal is a compilation of actual experiences but the tip-to-tip trip
is fictional. Still, it could very well have happened just this way -Editor
Want to explore more of Catalina?
Become a volunteer for the Conservancy.
To hike, mountain bike or jeep eco tour call
310-510-2595 ext 0.
Shuttle into the interior by calling Catalina's Airport-in-the-Sky 310-510-0143.
Connect with a wide range of educational
programs.
Delve into the beauty of Catalina at the Wrigley
Memorial and Botanical Garden. |
